One of the best things about talking food with other food enthusiasts (apologies for using that term in overabundance, I just hate the term “foodie”) is the resulting recommendations that come from discussing where you love to eat. There’s a look in the eyes – a widening, a sparkle – that tells you all you need to know.
I get that look about many, many things that I have eaten. After Chicago, I couldn’t talk about the food at Chicago Diner without getting a little misty eyed. I speak in similar ways about the taco stand at Las Palmas, the Shakshuka at Sababa Middle Eastern Grill, the buffalo seitan wings at Spak Brothers.
Sylvia, from Burgh Bits and Bites, had that look when she talked about the meles at Colangelo’s. The question, “Ooh, what’s a mele?” nearly sent her teetering off her chair. Meles, apparently, are one of the most delicious pastries invented by man, and Colangelo’s offers some of the best.
“You must try it.”
I take recommendations fairly seriously, and when it’s a real rave review, I make a point of adding the place or item onto my mental list of things to try. So, on a short trip through the Strip on Saturday, I happened by Colangelo’s and decided to make good on her recommendation and my curiosity.
Sylvia, if you’re reading this: HOLY CRAP! WHAT HAVE I BEEN DOING ALL THESE YEARS WITHOUT THESE MELES IN MY LIFE?
I ordered an apricot mele, and hoo boy… I’ve never had a pastry where the least impressive thing about it was the filling. And the apricot filling was very good, just not as spectacular as the pastry. Lightly sugared to give it a sweet crunch, it was still chewy and soft in all the right ways. Despite all the sugar, it wasn’t overpoweringly sweet, like a cheap danish or pastry. It had the slightest essence of vanilla that blended smoothly into the burst of citrus flavor from the apricot preserves.
About the size of my (admittedly small) hand, it was almost too much for me to handle alone. I split it in two and shared with my friend, Mo, whose reaction matched my own. How have we not tried this before? All the time I’ve spent in the Strip District and I never once tried this amazing little treat?
I meant to buy two meles, but the clerk misheard me. Flustered by the noise and crowd building around the counter, but still determined to get two pastries, I asked for something a bit more familiar to me: Sfogiatelle.
The Italian name means “many leaves” or “many layers” so it’s easy to understand how the treat got its name. The shell shaped pastry is comprised of flaky pastry layered one on top of the next. The inside is a slightly creamy, almost cheesy filling, but it’s so subtly worked into the pastry, you barely notice it until after the bite.
Because Colangelo’s was a bit crowded, I took my treats to my favorite eating spot: The walkway outside of the Pittsburgh Public Market. There I enjoyed my pastries, the first cup of coffee of my day, and a nearly perfect sunny Saturday morning.